Select the precise minimize of meat and observe these simple tricks to put together steak au poivre for 2.
Armando Rafael for The New York Occasions. Meals Stylist: Brett Regot.
Like many treasured French dishes, steak au poivre abides by sure tenets: It begins with a bit of beef that’s crusted in crushed peppercorns and ends with a shiny, peppery pan sauce. However in any other case, it’s formed by the alternatives of its cook dinner.
Relying on the place you dine out, you may envision steak au poivre as a comfortable bistro meal or a steakhouse splurge — nevertheless it’s additionally the sort of restaurant dish that you could obtain at house (for a fraction of the worth). Whether or not you’re cooking to impress a Valentine or to deal with your self, this considerate recipe will guarantee an ideal, stress-free dinner.
Armando Rafael for The New York Occasions. Meals Stylist: Brett Regot.
Select the precise minimize of meat.
Deciding on a richly marbled minimize of beef is its personal insurance coverage in opposition to subpar steak — it’s extra forgiving if it’s barely overcooked. Lean filet mignon was as soon as favored for its tenderness, however a boneless rib-eye or strip steak, marbled with fats, has infinitely extra taste, and the next floor space to carry extra toasted peppercorns. Cooking one massive rib-eye to share appears to be like extra lavish on the plate — and it’s simpler to cook dinner one steak completely than two.
It’s onerous to say whether or not a fattier minimize of beef even strays from custom — Anthony Bourdain favored a pavé, whereas Jacques Pépin suggests a shell steak. Even the origins of the dish are unclear. “Because it’s a flashy dish, with Cognac flambé, it feels extra Parisian than Norman to me and extra Nineteen Twenties Paris to be particular,” mentioned Maryann Tebben, the creator of “Savoir-Faire: A Historical past of Meals in France.” “However this can be a type of dishes that may be very onerous to pin down, since pepper sauces have been fashionable in French cooking because the Center Ages.”
Crack complete peppercorns evenly.
Crushing peppercorns is a tedious process; there’s merely no approach round it. However, because the central taste of steak au poivre (which interprets to pepper steak), it deserves care. A mortar and pestle do a strong job of containing the pesky errant items — peppercorns pop like popcorn when crushed — however pulverize them inconsistently. For uniformly cracked items, place the peppercorns in a big rimmed sheet pan and crush small clusters with the flat facet of a chef’s knife. Black peppercorns are conventional, although you might actually swap in a portion of white, inexperienced or pink peppercorns, and even complete Sichuan pepper. All varieties have to be freshly crushed, as store-bought cracked pepper tastes boring and dusty by comparability.
Good the pan sauce.
After the peppercorn-crusted steak is seared, a easy pan sauce is created by softening shallots within the pan’s fats, then including a splash of alcohol for verve. (Cognac is most well-liked, however brandy tastes simply nearly as good.) Julia Baby famously feared flambé, however you possibly can bypass any potential flames by merely deglazing the pan off the warmth, permitting the Cognac to dislodge any browned bits with the burner off.
The distinction between a unfastened sauce that runs on the plate and one which glazes your meat is strictly time: Add some inventory and permit it to cut back till the sauce turns into nappante, or thick sufficient to coat the again of a spoon. A spoonful of butter provides a silkiness that balances the pepper’s chunk, and heavy cream binds it right into a satiny sauce in order that doesn’t break or separate.
Lastly, plating issues: Fanning your sliced steak on high of the sauce feels extra trendy — and appears extra refined — than dousing the meat in sauce.
The method for steak au poivre is comparatively easy, the outcomes elegant. With the precise minimize of meat, and a few modest tweaks, the basic dish feels timeless.